Helmut Lang draped jacket
There is a faction of designers I like to call fashion’s lost legends. Lost, in that despite having a profound impact on the world of fashion, they fell off the grid. Some exited the industry for other pursuits. Some left a major fashion house and never landed anywhere new. And others… well, the world may never know.
What is so fascinating about this group is that none of them are one-trick ponies. They are all supremely talented. So talented, in fact, they completely changed the way the world got dressed.
I will be breaking down the full list of these sartorial visionaries, but first, let us start with [arguably] the biggest one… Helmut Lang.
What Helmut Lang Gave the World of Fashion
For the uninitiated, Helmut Lang is an Austrian designer that started his line in 1977 and left the industry in 2005. His almost 20-year career began at the age of 21, in Vienna. While in business school, he did a 180 and tried his hand at design. By 1986 he was showing in Paris.
What makes him so revolutionary is his popularization of minimalism. He introduced concepts that are copied ad nauseaum in fast fashion and luxury houses alike even to this day.
What you’re wearing right now is very likely because of Helmut Lang. Not sold? Here’s a (not complete) list of what he contributed to fashion.
- Moto pants and leggings
- Designer denim
- Flat front pants
- 3-button suits
- Black-and-white and monochrome aesthetics
- Mixing of high and low; luxury and streetwear
- Straps and bondage-esque details in clothing
How Helmut Lang Changed the Business of Fashion
If you caught my post 5 Fashion Facts That Shaped The History of Fashion, you know that Helmut Lang is responsible for the Americans showing first on the fashion calendar – something that was never done prior to 1998. When he left Paris for New York, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan followed suit, creating a mass exodus of American designers that showed before the Europeans.
He was also the first to show menswear and womenswear together, AND the first to eliminate elevated catwalks. He felt that showing the models walking ground-level gave a better indication of how the clothes mimicked real life.
His 1998 show was the first in history to be shown online. Guests received a CD-ROM, as well as a link to watch the show on the internet. Incredibly revolutionary for the time, even though it was done out of necessity (no venue) versus Steve Jobs-like innovation. He would show online once more, immediately after 9/11. This set into motion online fashion archives like style.com.
Helmut Lang the Man
Known for marching to his own beat, Lang wasn’t one for the limelight. He rarely gave interviews, wouldn’t show up for ceremonies in which he was nominated for awards and didn’t enjoy the social side of fashion.
He advertised in unconventional places like National Geographic and on top of taxi cabs in NYC.
His camp argues that he did not popularize minimalism, but essentialism. I too, agree with this assessment. Here is one of my favorite Helmut Lang quotes that epitomizes this theory.
When asked what he wants to express through clothing:
Contemporary and visionary possibilities infused with my interests in the human condition with a shot of elegance, romance, and coolness. Experiments with basics and eccentrics, shaken not stirred, and served with a dose of sexuality.
Where it all Went Wrong
In 1999, The Prada Group bought a 51% stake in his company. While Lang still had full creative control, Prada wanted him to focus on “it” shoes and handbags. They canceled a licensing agreement with one of his biggest denim manufacturers – the bread and butter of his business. Within 5 years, the company fell by 60%.
People close to the source said it wasn’t a matter of fault by one side or the other, but rather a misalignment of the merger. At the time, fashion conglomerates were still forming and find their footing. No one really knew what would work and what wouldn’t. While The Prada Group isn’t one of the big conglomerates, they do own a roster of brands. Unfortunately, owning Helmut Lang was not value-added for either entity.
Lang exited the business in 2005. His brand is now owned by the group that owns Theory and Uniqlo.
Where is he now?
Helmut Lang is now a part of the fine art world.
Upon retiring, he donated his archives to 18 different museums and non-profits. An Athens man owns the largest private collection of his pieces in the world.
When a fire consumed part of his studio, Lang made the decision to shred the remains and use it in his art.
You can read more about his fine art here and his collaboration with Saint Lauren here.
