Rebecca Minkoff
Rebecca Minkoff has always been an innovative designer. She was one of the first NYFW designers to move to a see now, buy now model. This means that the clothes she presents are for the current season and available for immediate purchase.
In a week where we are seeing heavy coats, sweaters, boots and multiple layers, a spring/summer collection is a literal breath of fresh air.
In September, Minkoff’s FW19 collection focused on the career woman. For SS20, she wanted to continue with other chapters in a woman’s life and dedicated the collection to the notion of rebirth. Women are mothers, boss babes, friends, and partners. Their lives are multifaceted. And they need diverse wardrobes for their many roles.
Yin yang pendants and prints were featured on sweatshirts symbolizing the beautiful balance of a woman’s life. An east meets west mentality also played out in floral separates, leather jackets and a color palette that ranged from soft yellow to vibrant pink. Tough meets feminine.
I loved the small details best. Pearl encrusted sandals, delicate eyelet fabric, subtle tie-dye and oversized scarves in floral print.
Minkoff also debuted her kid’s line, Little Minkoff, which is focused on sustainability. The pieces are for kids ages 4-12 and are not produced until an order is placed, reducing warehouse space and inventory ending up in landfills. They are made with biodegradable materials, earth-friendly BLUESIGN-approved reactive inks, and use 50% less water to produce.
Sandy Liang
If you’re not familiar with designer Sandy Liang, now is the time to pay attention. I was fortunate to attend her first-ever NYFW runway show in September, and her sophomore year was just as fabulous. For FW20 the clothes were more grown-up with slightly less focus on the kitschy details we’ve come to know and love from Liang (Polly Pocket jewelry, for example).
Long skirts were paired with impeccable sweaters and tall Western inspired boots. Her signature faux fur jackets were shown in neutrals rather than vibrant hues. The black and white dresses and separates, which appeared simple at first glance, were anything but. Ruching, cinching and Peter Pan collars gave them head-turning detail.
If you’re wondering whether whimsical Liang made an appearance, fear not. Anime eyeball print made it onto puffer coats and silky separates. And the whole collection was still a nod to Liang’s affinity for the treasures of her youth. The runway was staged in her old high school and her puppy made a debut on the runway.
I love a nostalgia moment on the runway!
Collina Strada
My final show of the day was supposed to be Collina Strada. Collina is one of my favorite shows every season. Designer Hillary Taymour not only designs comfortable, fashion-forward clothing, but she’s a true artist. Every runway is an experience, a movement. In a world where the average runway show is a 13-minute parade of clothes, Collina Strada always delivers a game-changer.
Beyond the performance art element of the shows, here’s why I really love Collina Strada. They make serious issues (eco-sustainability) FUN. Whenever a designer can use a platform to convey a strong message in a way that includes me in the journey, I’m sold. The environment is already something I’m already passionate about. But when I see this message unfold in beautifully designed garments made of deadstock materials, I’m head over heels.
For FW20, it was a garden party in the land of Collina. I adore the floral prints – not too precious – and the bold hues of her silky separates. The Victorian era blouses totally worked juxtaposed with the tie-dye 90s inspired slip dresses. And oh the accessories. Since it was a garden party, the models danced down the grass runway with crystal-encrusted tools – hoes, watering cans, (and for everyday use) water bottles.
ICYMI: here is my NYFW FW20 Day 1 show recap.
Rebecca Minkoff photos courtesy of BFA, Ryan Kobane.
Sandy Liang and Collina Strada photos courtesy of IMAXTREE.