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Fashion Friday

Paris Fashion Week closed out the Spring/Summer 2022 collections with some groundbreaking shows.  What did they all have in common?  A beautiful essence of a bygone era.

Three shows brought the nostalgia, each in their own unique way.  Here are my faves.

Chanel

Chanel took a page from history and gave us the height of the 90s supermodel.  Instead of an elaborate set, the models walked down an elevated catwalk.  There were no deadpan expressions; the energy was playful, exhuberant and social.  They twirled, talked to each other and smiled.  I can just picture Christy, Cindy and Claudia doing this exact thing decades ago.

Nostalgia party for the win.

Chanel S/S22Chanel S/S22Chanel S/S22

 

AZ Factory’s Tribute to Alber Elbaz

This was the show I was most looking forward to.  We saw the newest collection of AZ Factory, plus 44 designers created tribute looks for Alber Elbaz.  I loved how each garment was so distinctly the style of its creator, yet had a beautiful essence of Alber.

Watching the show was very emotional.  As each look descended the runway, a different version of Alber conjured in my mind.  The Lanvin years, meeting him in person, the profound speeches he gave, him being the true embodiment of love.  Tears flowed in abundance, especially at the final bow.  It was such a beautiful display of talent, emotion and love.

Rick Owens x AZ Factory AZ Factory AZ Factory AZ Factory AZ Factory

 

Miu Miu

Miuccia Prada sent uber low rise micro miniskirts down the runway.  Let me repeat: low rise micro miniskirts.

This was nostalgic, ballsy, ridiculous and brilliant.  Her capitalization of a generation addicted to the 90s – where do you think they’ll go next? – was superb.  I think she’ll be laughing all the way to the bank.

Will I be rocking a low rise micro miniskirt?  No.

But I appreciate the brash gesture and kinda love how the khakis and sweater sets came together.  Plus, we’re all picturing the Paris and Christina days and how can you not smile at the ridiculousness of that?

Miu Miu S/S22Miu Miu S/S22 Miu Miu S/S22

Shop AZ Factory

 

Images via IMAXTREE

Remembering Alber Elbaz

I sat down to write this post fully intending to share a History of Fashion level tribute to the life and career of Alber Elbaz.

The Moroccan-born, Israeli designer passed away this week at the age of 59 due to complications from COVID-19.

But instead what happened was a scenario my Yiayia would often recount to me.  She had a rolltop desk in her kitchen.  And every year or so she would vow to clean it out.  But every time she opened it, ready to organize and purge, she came across a memory.  A letter.  A ticket stub.  A Post-it note.  And a worthwhile endeavor turned into an entire day of reminiscing.

The desk never got clean.

I have collected so many editorials, runway images, interviews, speeches and anecdotes that Alber has shared, I simply fell down the rabbit hole revisiting them.  I guess I’m not ready to write his History of Fashion.

Instead, I will share a very limited number of quotes Alber gave over the years.

May your memory be eternal, kind soul.

“My conclusion today is that fashion is very important, today maybe more than ever, because we fashion designers maybe have a role. We have the duty to bring beauty to the world, to make women feel better, to make women feel good, to uplift them.”

“Fashion is not a reality, but it can become a reality if there’s nothing else in your life.”

“… this is why his clothes are always so wearable and so loving. They are always a step short of theatricality. With the same vocabulary, a designer could do something theatrical; he does something emotional.” — Izhar Patkin

“We designers started as couturiers with dreams, with intuitions and with feelings.…Then we became creative directors, so we have to create, but mostly direct. And now we have become image makers, making sure it looks good in pictures. The screen has to scream, baby…loudness is the new cool. I prefer whispering. I think it goes deeper and lasts longer.”

Fashion Friday

Haute Couture S/S21 walked this week and there is much to discuss!  Check out the highlights below.

Alber Elbaz Returns to Fashion

AZ Factory AZ Factory AZ Factory AZ Factory AZ Factory

Alber left the fashion world in 2015 seemingly without a trace.  Many thought he would reemerge at a major house, but he spent his time reflecting, connecting and creating far from the public eye.  For couture week he unveiled his new line, AZ Factory.

Meant to be a “dream factory” the clothes are made for women of the NOW.  Built as a capsule collection, each piece is meant to be mixed and matched and take you from day to night.  Kind of like Multiples from the 80s but way, way more chic.

I love that he created a sneaker as his sole shoe for the collection.  Crafted with a pointy toe, it’s a heel/sneaker hybrid for optimal versatility.

The scuba suit leash zippers on dresses were hatched for the independent woman – why should you need help getting dressed?  And the fabrics were created to hold you in and let you loose in all the right places.

I, for one, will be pre-ordering.

Kim Jones Debuts First Couture Collection for Fendi

Fendi S/S21 CoutureFendi S/S21 Couture

This was a hold-my-breath moment, and when I saw it walk, I breathed a sigh of relief.  While I didn’t love it, I felt Kim stayed true to the DNA of Fendi.  After the Matthew Williams for Givenchy botched debut, I was so afraid Karl’s work and the Fendi family legacy would be dragged.

Not the case here.  While it was mostly “fine” in my book, there were a few looks I loved.

Sadly the most notable moment of the show was probably Demi Moore’s new face. :S

The Valentino Shoes

Valentino S/S21 Couture Valentino S/S21 Couture Valentino S/S21 Couture Valentino S/S21 Couture

This collection was a super interesting choice for Pierpaolo.  If you’ve been following me for a while, you know I love Pierpaolo for Valentino.

Rather than the Roman drama we expect from him, he gave us a subdued (well, minus the shoes) collection.  While there were a few maximalist looks, the majority stayed true to clean lines, relaxed tailoring and layers upon layers a la Phoebe at Celine.

So, let’s talk about the shoes. Analysts have pointed out that during times of recession, the heels get higher.  We all need an escape.

While I will not be buying these – you know I only do a massive platform if it’s accompanied by a massive block heel – I did appreciate the apropos nature.

We are all ready for an epic escape.

Iris Van Herpen and Those Headpieces

Iris Van Herpen Iris Van Herpen

Iris Van Herpen always brings the wow factor with her sculptural works of art.  This season she worked with artist Casey Curran for the headpieces.  You must check out a close-up of these beauties by watching a video – they are absolutely incredible.

All images via IMAXTREE