In Spades

Showing at New York Fashion Week is no small feat. Besides the endless hours of brainstorming and then actually creating a collection, the production itself is an entirely different component. While no one really knows exactly how much it costs to show at NYFW, the short answer is… a lot. Somewhere to the tune of $200,000. For an emerging designer, this is virtually impossible and so emerges the chicken or the egg question. How do designers attract buyers and gain a following if they can’t show?

Thankfully there are events like Nolcha Fashion Week and Fashion Gallery Fashion Week specifically created for independent designers to showcase their collections. A platform of discovery for new talent, I had the pleasure of attending both, and will be sharing two of my favorites on the blog. First up…

Auma
Inspired by urban atmospheres, designer Gloria Auma hails from Norway. A relaxed yet contemporary line, I felt a nod to Alexander Wang in some of her pieces. Her creations use immaculate, clean lines and I believe she’s establishing herself as the go-to designer for not-so-basic, basics.

Auma designs for both men and women. There’s a subtle androgyny to their looks that made me fall in love with the menswear just as much as the womenswear – I believe you could absolutely interchange them and wear both. Also of note is her precision to mirroring that aesthetic on both sexes. Many of the other lines we saw were disjointed and deviated from their original purpose, but Auma keeps a tight grasp on what she set out to do. Keep your eye on Auma. I definitely think we’ll be seeing a lot more from this fantastic line in the future.

Photos by Matthew Passiglia

Photos by Matthew Passiglia

Nigerian-born designer Ese Azenabor attracted quite the crowd prior to her A/W15 runway show. Based in Dallas, the room was packed with supporters all anticipating her collection, inspired by the reign of Henry VII. Known for her hand beaded pieces and use of opulent fabrics like embroidered jacquard and crocheted lace, her designs are carried in boutiques in Dallas, New York, Amsterdam and Dubai.

What I think Ese Azenabor does best is her use of proportions and silhouette. Each look had either a plunging or extremely high neckline, proving to be equally sexy and elegant. Her suiting and dresses crafted in black beading were totally on point and I loved that she had the moxie to send an Elvis Presley inspired caped number down the runway. Opulent, luxurious and regal indeed.

Photos by Matthew Passiglia

One of the great joys of fashion week is discovering new gems. From the minute the first look came down the runway, I knew I was going to love Berenik. A Swiss label helmed by designer Veronika Brusa, the brand’s essence is simplicity with a contemporary twist.

What makes Berenik such a hit in my book is that nothing is over-designed. It takes quite a bit of masterful restraint to know when a design has hit its mark. The oversized jackets and jumpsuits are expertly tailored and among my favorites for autumn or spring. The use of carefully curated fabrics – faux fur, crepe de chine, cotton jacquard, silk velour and wool – elevate the sporty silhouettes from casual to elegant.

Another major bonus of the collection is the accessories.  From scarves, gloves, leather goods and shoes I pretty much wanted it all.  I especially love the oxford-boot hybrid with calf hair accents (dying!) and the combo briefcase/backpack as an everyday staple.  I know what I’m going to be wearing come autumn.

Photos by Matthew Passiglia

To behold a Nina Athanasiou runway show is to gain a pretty intimate glimpse into her creative process. An artist through and through, her A/W15 show started with a screening of a short film she produced, followed by a musical performance from one of her models. Both depicted a journey to uncover something unique, and something unique is what she delivered. Influenced by the marriage of opposite extremes, she used the raw feel of leather with the soft, luxurious feel of feathers on jackets, skirts and boot coverings. She’s an edgy designer, unafraid of taking risks, and while watching her pieces come down the runway, I felt a reference to fetish culture in the styling and accessories. There was also something futuristic in her designs – almost as if Tina Turner was going to emerge from the Thunderdome to greet Mad Max. I love that she tends to use the same models in her print, runway and video imagery, notably famous albino model Shaun Ross. This adds an extra layer of character to the clothes, allowing all who experience them to almost feel a kinship, like getting to know a new friend on a deeper level.