In Spades

In the past I’ve written about what it means to be hyper aware that the creativity unfolding before you is greatness. It’s both an exhilarating and terrifying feeling. Terrifying, because deep down inside something is breaking your concentration, jolting you back to reality and telling you that, eventually, it will end. The sensation can’t be sustained. It’s rather heartbreaking. If only we could pause those moments and relive them at our leisure.

The fluorescent sign above the runway reads: “Heartbreak Hotel. No vacancy.”

It’s Valentine’s Day weekend. I know I’m in for a good show.

Giulietta designer Sofia Sizzi upped the ante for FW16 with a more aggressive tilt to her feminine silhouettes. Leather cigarette pants and bomber jackets gave a nod to 1960’s America and the grittier Parisian ‘80s showing us an edgier Giulietta woman than we’ve seen in seasons past.

I, for one, love the envelope pushing. Tear streaked models are cloaked in a palette of black and silver, accented by vivid red. A scrawling love letter print is shown, jewel encrusted, on a tuxedo jacket and again in Technicolor, resembling graffiti. There is a message here. Through the erratic emotions of love and heartbreak, comes strength.

Giulietta’s final looks continue this process of transformation. Sequins are used like a suit of armor in a sexy jumpsuit with an open back, and – my favorite – a show stopping floor length red dress. It ends in a black gown adorned with a crystal encrusted broken heart. This is the Heartbreak Hotel. We check in, but come out revolutionized.

Photos by Matthew Passiglia

As I walk into Hoffman Hall at The High Line Hotel in Chelsea, its as though I’ve been transported to an insanely glamorous dinner party. I half expect to see Andy Warhol and Pierre Berge among the crowd, but sitting and standing before me are three generations of women adorned in 70s inspired velvet suiting, flowing Aztec prints and sequined tunic dresses. The scene evokes a bygone era that has been reinvented with a modern touch. The modern touch of Mara Hoffman. This is FW16.

I work my way around the room beginning on the right where I’m greeted by an ivory jumpsuit with a plunging neckline, open back and billowing sleeves. It’s a statement piece, strong and feminine, reminiscent of 1970s power disco. Surrounding the vision in white are Aztec prints in gold, red and aqua. Tunics draped over wide leg pants, floor length gowns and silk suit separates all bear the exotic print.

At the center of the party is an icon in her own right, Ilona Royce Smithkin, the 90+year old ingénue flanked by crimson haired twin sisters. All three are beautiful, dressed in a whimsical safari print that flows beyond their feet and drapes off their shoulders. It’s a magical scene to watch the three interact. They fully embody the eclectic coven of dreamers Hoffman has created for FW16.

As I weave my way towards the other end of the party, the scene transitions to zebra print dresses in both the classic palette and dripping with sequins. I come across a crushed velvet suit with silk scarf lapels that glistens from every angle. The powerful female identity is intoxicating. I make a mental note to purchase every piece in the collection.

Finally, I reach the end of the decadent party. The bright safari print in tangerine and aqua has segued to a leafy aubergine and deep green. Long, oversize coats are paired with berets and white brimmed hats making the wearer somehow show stopping and inconspicuous at the same time. The final look (for me) is a full-skirted gown with plunging neckline. It’s elegant, exotic and incredibly sexy. I’m smitten.

Mara Hoffman took us through moments of strength, femininity and fantasy. An experience that mirrors each leg of a dreamer’s journey.

Photos by Matthew Passiglia

Inspired by the vast beauty of Venezuela’s Angel Falls, Karigam’s FW16 collection showcased an array of colors and textures found in nature. Helmed by designer Karina Gamez, the relatively new line – launched in 2014 – is know for its bold and sophisticated separates.

The show opened with a stunning array of shearling coats in smoky blues and balsam greens. Equally luxurious and inviting, they were absolutely calling my name. High necklines were present in just about every look, from funnel-collared coats to cowl neck jackets and silk scarves in rich marsala, forest and moon mist.

The Karigam woman is successful and independent and each piece conveyed a sense of authoritative power. It was the modern details on traditional silhouettes – asymmetrical leather hemlines, sequined front panel pants – that invigorated this sense of strength.

As the collection transitioned from marsala to moss I fell further entranced with each look. The off-the-shoulder turtleneck poncho was so chic and wearable, followed by the forest green wool coat that will be a must-have in any wardrobe. But the morning’s highlight was definitely the finale. A flowing white maxi dress topped with a vivid shearling vest? Brilliant.

Photos by Matthew Passiglia