The moment I descended the many rows in The Arc at Skylight Moynihan Station on February 12, I left the frigid NY temperatures behind and was transported to an exotic locale. Rhythmic music echoed from all angles and a tribal print covered the walls. I had apparently stumbled upon a primal tattoo parlor in which all of the inhabitants were glamorous and sexy.
This was exactly as Tadashi Shoji intended.
The designer’s F/W16 collection opened in a palette of nudes, copper, black and gold. Rather than the permanence of ink, thread and sequins were added to the designer’s needle crafting form fitting body suits and illusion necklines. Models eyes were dusted in black and gold, their hair wet and undone. Out of the gate, there was a feeling of gritty glamour.
Tadashi played with eye-catching motifs – tribal, burnout, tattoo-print, mosaic and lace. Despite their variance, the collection was incredibly cohesive, highlighting Shoji’s masterful tailoring of figure flattering garments. Among my favorites was his copper mosaic tulle gown with illusion panel insets. Resembling a modern day Nefertiti, it was dark and incredibly glamorous. Another standout was his deep leaf oversized coat paired with a sequins sheath dress. One of his few looks to deviate from a neutral palette, it scored major points for its beautiful juxtaposition of silhouette and the fact that it was faux fur, something rarely seen on fashion week runways.
Closing the show was a stream of signature Shoji – billowy gowns that appeared to be made of air. They floated down the runway showcasing expert draping and ruching. No one does a shutter pleat like Shoji. To round out this featherweight elegance, each of the final looks featured a delicate adornment of dripping crystal from bicep to wrist, a touch that made the entire crowd swoon.
Photos by Matthew Passiglia 
